![]() The standard rules with target line adjustments say that you move your feet in the direction of the miss and/or you move your target in the opposite direction of the miss. You’ll need to move your feet and/or your target to get your ball back into the pocket. Now, let’s suppose that with this 10-to-10 target line, your ball is hooking too much and going high into the pocket. In other words, you drift two boards to the left, resulting in you sliding on 16 and then setting the ball down on 10, thanks to the 6 board separation between the ball and your slide foot at the release. And, let’s assume that you’ve determined that you need to stand on 14 in your stance in order to end up at 16 at the release while targeting the 10 board. Hence, you need to finish your slide on board 16 in order to get your ball to land on 10. ![]() Let’s assume that-through trial and error and through the help of a friend or video camera-you’ve determined that you have 6 boards of separation between the edge of your slide foot and the center of the ball at the release point. So, this drift also needs to be factored into your starting position. And, if you’re like most bowlers, you’ll drift one way or the other by some amount during your approach. For most bowlers who have decent fundamentals, they’d need to finish their slide around board 16 or 17 in order for the center of the ball to be on the 10 board at the release point. Now, the first thing that must be established before you can line up to play a 10-to-10 target line is where your feet need to be placed at the start of your approach. ![]() While conventions vary on this, in this article we’ll refer to this as a “10-to-10” line, where the first number represents where the ball is at the foul line and the second number represents where the ball is at the arrows. It would then travel straight down the lane parallel to the boards and then eventually start hooking toward the pocket. The classic example is to use the second arrow as the target, which is on the 10th board from the gutter.Ī ball launched straight down the 10 board must-quite obviously-be placed onto the lane off your hand on the 10 board. In the beginning, you were likely taught to pick a target at the arrows and to position your feet so that you could launch your ball straight down the lane over your chosen target. It’s going to be a long-but hopefully not bumpy-ride, so let’s get started! Target line basics We’ll discuss many of bowling’s most common target line adjustments with some hypothetical real-world examples-the 1-and-1 parallel move, the 3-and-2 move, the 2-and-1 move, and more-and explore the how and why of their effect on the ball’s position at the pins. We’ll start with a basic overview of the target line, covering what specifically happens to the target line when we move our feet and/or target, and we’ll explore the effect of these movements at the pins. In this article, let’s go back to the basics and discuss the fundamentals of target line adjustments. We’ll all be making them right up to the bitter end! But, no matter how long we bowl, no matter how perfect our bowling ball arsenals are, and no matter how well we’ve mastered the various physical adjustments, none of us will ever stop making feet and target adjustments. The first adjustment we typically learn-usually very early in our bowling careers-is how to move our feet and target.įrom there, of course, we progress into more advanced adjustments-things like ball speed adjustments, release adjustments, loft adjustments, and ball changes. There are dozens of possible adjustments that we as bowlers can make to change where and how our bowling balls are entering the pocket.
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